
compressed air to “blow away” excess solder. The resulting splatter will almost always cause
more damage than the original solder bridge.
Another thing to look out for is “cold” solder joints, they look dull and blobby compared to a
nice shiny “tented” solder joint. Cold solder joints won’t conduct well; at the low power that
the Eggfinder RX uses this could easily keep things from working. If you have a cold solder
joint, heat it up and put just a little bit of solder on it, the main idea is to get a little more flux
on the joint. If there’s too much solder, use a fine solder wick or (preferably) a vacuum bulb to
remove the excess, then heat it up and resolder the joint.
Check Your Component Polarity
Most of the through-hole components aren’t polarized, with some notable exceptions. The
outline of the parts is silk-screened on the board, so you should be able to see readily if you
have a component soldered in backwards. Components that are polarized are:
• The electrolytic capacitors, the side marked “-------“ should be OPPOSITE the side marked
“+” on the board.
• The LEDs, the long leads should have been inserted in the pad marked “+”. Unfortunately,
once you clip the leads it may be difficult to tell if you have inserted it correctly.
If you inserted a component incorrectly, you will have to carefully unsolder it, clear any solder
residue from the holes, and resolder it. If you find that a component was soldered incorrectly,
you will have to use a vacuum bulb or vacuum desoldering tool to unsolder it. We cannot
stress enough that you need to check the orientation of the parts before you solder them. The
Eggfinder Limited Warranty does not cover damage to a component while attempting to
unsolder it, so make take your time and make sure you get it right before you solder.
Check Your Cabling
Make sure that the RED wire on the cable is on the “BATT +” pad (NOT the “3.3V” pad next
to the RF module!), the BLACK wire is on the “BATT –“ pad, and the WHITE wire is on the
“RXD” pad (next to the RF module).
If It Still Doesn’t Work…
There is, of course, always an outside chance that you have a bad component. We test each PC
board and the surface mounted components before they leave us. Nevertheless, it is always
possible that something may be wrong; there may be a bridge on the PC board itself, etc. If
you have gone through all of the troubleshooting steps and the board still doesn’t work, let us
know at support@eggtimerrocketry.com . A high-resolution picture (5 megapixel or better) of
both sides of your circuit board and a description of the problem would be very helpful…
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